Traditional racing on paved surfaces uses "grip" turning: acceleration, deceleration, and directional forces are limited so the tires maintain traction. Drifting moves the car around a curve by intentionally breaking traction. Drifting as a sport only occurs on dry pavement, but the same techniques are applied to a variety of motor sports in which the surfaces used provide less traction, particularly rally racing and ice racing.
To drift, you need to lose traction on the rear wheels, inducing a skid. This is done by either using enough steering, acceleration, and braking to break traction. Sometimes the weight of the car is shifted back and forth using the suspension to reduce the weight on the tires.
Most drifting cars are rear wheel drive: being able to apply power to the rear wheels suddenly can help them break traction. Your car really isn't meant to do this, and even if you don't hit anything, you may still cause damage from the forces you are putting on your engine, drivetrain, brakes, and tires.
There are three basic drifts that cover the techniques needed for drifting:
The most basic drift is the e-brake drift.
By locking the rear wheels with the e-brake, it forces them to lose traction. This can be applied to almost any other drift technique.
Scandinavian flick: Originating from a technique used by Scandinavian rally drivers, the car is steered in the opposite direction of a corner, then rapidly steered toward it, forcing the car's weight to the outside of the corner.
Braking drift: This can only be done in a rear wheel drive car. Before a curve, the brakes are applied, moving the weight to the front of the car. Entering the turn, the accelerator is pushed, forcing the now lightened rear end to break traction.
Remember: there is no such thing as a "controlled skid." Once you begin a drift, you will have no control over where your car goes until you regain traction. These techniques should NEVER be used on public roads.
Posted 3801 day ago